Mammoth Cave Supergraphic

Kentucky Caves and Kangaroos

Traveling in a fried-out Kombi

I turn off of I-65 at the Mammoth Cave exit. The stretch of road leading to the visitor center is lined with kitschy tourist traps. Right off the exit is a towering T-Rex promoting Dinosaur World.  Big Mike’s appears to be the powerhouse of rock shops, but this doesn’t dissuade some locals from piling their geodes on pallets and makeshift plywood tables to hock their crystalline rocks and other novelties. I admire their capitalistic idealism.  Of course, there is the always ever-present southern favorite: hillbilly mini-golf, taffy and fudge shops. […]

Serpent Mound, Peebles, OH.

Ssssss!

The Serpent  Mound is the world’s oldest surviving example of an ancient animal effigy.  This immense earthwork was constructed by early American Indian cultures.  The exact builders are unknown. The mound is thought to be a ceremonial site. The serpent motif has a symbolic connection in many cultures. It represents the cycles of birth, death, resurrection and the higher and lower worlds. […]

Kentucky SuperGraphic

Kentucky Thoroughbreds – Win, Place, Show

Kentucky Thoroughbreds – Win, Place, Show

From the major thoroughbred racing tracks to Old Friends Farm for retired thoroughbreds Kentucky earns is designation as Horse Capital of the World.  The two thoroughbred racing tracks in Kentucky are: Churchill Downs in Louisville and Keeneland in Lexington.

While the two tracks are only about 70 miles apart, they are very different. Churchill is located in the heart of Louisville in a somewhat blighted area, whereas Keeneland is nestled on the outskirts of town among white fence lined horse farms.

The Show Bet: Churchill Downs – Louisville, KY

The iconic Twin Spires and intense media attention the first Saturday of May instills Churchill as the better known of the two tracks.

Churchill Barbaro Statue

 

I may be a little partial to my home track in Lexington, but to be fair, I’ve only been to Churchill on big, crazy, crowded race days, the derby a couple of times and sadly to watch the little filly Zenyattas‘ winning streak come to an end.

Kentucky - Zenyatta.jpg

I’ve seen plenty of horse races and they can be fun. I prefer, however, to find attractions away from the home stretch and that can be enjoyed outside the short racing seasons.

Kentucky Derby Museum

Adjacent to Churchill Downs is the Kentucky Derby Museum. There are many informative exhibits to peruse here. As a Kentucky native, I thought I knew horse racing. However, there are many nuances to the sport to be learned today. I have way too much fun being silly and engaging with the many child-oriented interactive displays, but nobody seems to mind. In fact, the museum staff help with some of the “must-have” photo ops.

Kentucky Jockey Outfit

With two floors of interactive, family-friendly exhibits, the Kentucky Derby Museum takes visitors through every stage of a Thoroughbred’s life, from birth to the First Saturday in May. The main exhibit in the museum is The Greatest Race, a 360° 18-minute media experience that will “make your heart race and emotions soar.” It offers a unique, panoramic ,inside view of horse racing.

The Place Bet:  Keeneland – Lexington, KY

Keeneland Blanket

The racing season at Keeneland is relatively short; a few weeks in April and in October. But that doesn’t keep me from enjoying the track during offseason.

Morning Workouts – Keeneland

The grandstand is open to the public year-round and early morning is a great time to enjoy horses breezing some workouts without the usual crowds. The track takes on a whole new persona when its just me and the horses. Watching the horses break from the morning fog, I can hear the breathing, the leather saddles straps and stirrups creaking as they try to contain the power they harness.  Feeling the rumble as they run and cantor by is a magical feeling.

Track Kitchen – Keeneland

The track kitchen is a favorite stop too.  This little, mostly unknown, cafe is not just for the trainers, owners, handicappers, and jockeys that use the track year-round, but is also open to the public.  It is a nondescript cinder block building on the backside of the track (look for the black water tower).  It has simple tables and padded metal chairs. The walls are lined with photos of the famous horses and jockeys who have raced here. The food is simple, fast and affordable.

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I look for a famous jockey or owner but there are only a few handlers here today. I do, however, enjoy my “Unbridled” pancakes and bacon.

The Winning Bet: Old Friends Equine Retirement Farm – Georgetown, KY

The thrill of a 2-minute horse race is undeniable.  But to really appreciate these beautiful animals, my favorite stop is Old Friends, a thoroughbred retirement farm in Georgetown, KY. Founded in 2003 by former Boston Globe film critic Michael Blowen, the organization has grown from a leased paddock and one horse to a 136-acre farm, a herd of over 175 rescued and retired horses.

This visit, as usual, begins with a greeting from the farms miniature “spokehorse” and mascot, Little Silver Charm.  Little Silver Charm, is named for his larger idol and namesake, Silver Charm. This little guy is full of personality and has adorned many of the county’s travel brochures. He is also quick to take a carrot from me and noses the bucket for more.

Little Silver Charm at Old Friends Farm
Little Silver Charm

Out to Pasture

Michael greets me and is overly excited to share with me the numerous retirees he has taken under his care. He is a walking encyclopedia of the horses’ careers, detailing their harrowing wins and their heartbreaking losses. He enthusiastically recounts their graded stakes entries and earnings. Most interestingly, he can explain and predict each horses’ unique personality.

With much delight, I surprisingly come face to snout with Silver Charm. He was The 1997 Kentucky Derby and Preakness Winner; as well as Racing Hall of Fame inductee.   He had just arrived at the farm from standing stud in Japan.  It excites me more to see this guy that it would any other modern-day human pro athlete. He is beautiful and stately. Like most thoroughbreds, he is a bit anxious but quickly succumbs to a little coaxing, and a carrot.

Silver Charm at Old Friends Farm
1997 Derby Winner – Silver Charm

The tour continues when Michael wants to show me that Special Ring could show off his tattoo. Sure enough, on command, a proud pony greets us “laughing” and displaying his required tattoo. This tattoo is inside the upper lip and links the racing registration papers to the horse and owner.Old Friends Farm - Special Ring Tattoo

The love and compassion Michael shows for these retired athletes is outstanding. They are beautiful animals that deserve to rest, play and retire in comfort and dignity.

Old Friends Farm retired horses
Rapid Redux and Amazombie horsin around.

 

Hot Tip: Surefire Winning Trifecta

Make an early morning trip (6-7 am) to Keeneland and have breakfast at the Track Kitchen. Head over to the Grandstand early so as not to miss the workouts of some future stars.

2 Thoroughbreds at Old Friends Farm
Takin Selfies

Continue with a walking tour of the grounds:  Keeneland Walking Tour Map.  Swing back by the kitchen and have them pack you a lunch to go. Make the 1/2 hour drive to Old Friends Farm for a tour of the equine retirement farm and enjoy a picnic with the former stars of the sport. (and take some carrots).

Kentucky - Owensboro-SuperGraphic.jpeg

Owensboro Bluegrass and BBQ

Owensboro Bluegrass

As an Owensboro native, I never considered my hometown as a hub of bluegrass music. I set out to uncover this Bluegrass connection. At the foot of the Ohio River bridge, is the newly constructed Bluegrass Music Museum. I find that the museum is closed on Sunday. In fact, the entire riverfront is deserted on an early Sunday morning. The Bluegrass music echoing from overhead speakers adds comfort to the otherwise gloomy skies and empty streets.

Bluegrass musical instruments

 

It seems that Owensboro is laying claim to its Bluegrass roots due to the proximity of Bill Monroes’ childhood home. Bill Monroe, “The Father of Bluegrass Music”, grew up 30 miles down the road in Rosine, KY.

Bill Monroe Blue Grass Boys Poster

International Bluegrass Museum – try again

I have been wanting to drop into the International Bluegrass Museum for a couple of years but somehow it never seems to fit into the schedule. On a previous visit, the museum was closed.

It’s an early rainy morning the weekend before Christmas and the whole riverfront is deserted.  Much to my surprise, the museum is open today.

Admission is a reasonable $8. I find a lone employee behind the counter and she eagerly introduces me to the museum. Sally starts a movie detailing the roots of Bluegrass Music narrated by the Father of Bluegrass, Bill Monroe.

I do find such history interesting but I am told the movie is :40 minutes long. That’s a bit much for my short attention span.  I wander around to some of the displays adjacent to the theater.

The displays give a textbook definition of Bluegrass Music as being tight throated, high-pitched,  piercing and full of lonesome yearning for the good simple life.  I never thought of it like that; but I’ve always appreciated the sound.

Owensboro Bluegrass Museum Displays

The displays are pretty static offering overhead domes for listening to the various artists and highlighting nuances of the music. Fortunately, I am the only one here. If it were busy the kiosks would be competing and playing over each other.

The Toe Tapping Begins

One display I particularly enjoy highlights bluegrass music in TV and film. Who ever gets tired of hearing “The Ballad of Jed Clampett”, from The Beverly Hillbillies,  “Dueling Banjos” from Deliverance and “Foggy Mountain Breakdown” from Bonnie and Clyde?

I fondly recall listening to Dad trying to pluck out Foggy Mounting breakdown and Cripple Creek when I was a child.  He never quite got the hang of it, bless his heart, and he about drove us crazy trying.

I wrap up the tour back at the lobby / gift shop area.  Sally enthusiastically asks about my visit. While discussing the exhibits,  I spy a huge upright bass behind her.  I ask if it’s available for a photo op.  She does me one better and provides a little impromptu lesson / jam session. I garner a whole new appreciation for the art; she just made it look easy!

Owensboro Bluegrass Museum Jam Session
Curious Craig and Strummin Sally

The current venue is small and cozy but big things are in store for the museum. In 2018, they get a new larger venue with much more to offer.  I’ll have to work on my plucking and come back for the Thursday jam sessions. In the meantime, I’ll continue to yearn for the good simple life.

I seek to learn more about Mr. Monroe and travel to The Bill Monroe Home Place.  While its posted hours state it should be open, it too is closed. The sign on the gate states to call the posted number and someone will be there for a tour within 15 minutes. My call went unanswered.  I will return to learn of this connection but for now, it’s lunchtime.

Owensboro BBQ

Owensboro is famously known as the BBQ Capital of the World. Sorry, Texas, Kansas, & Memphis. We got the trademark first. We celebrate the second weekend in May every year with the International BBQ Festival. Owensboro’s BBQ specialty is Mutton. Mutton is lamb meat smoked over hickory wood. It is served in both sliced and chopped varieties usually on white bread or hamburger bun. As a sandwich, expect it to come with pickle and onion. I prefer the sliced mutton, with a vinegar-based sauce that we locals call “dip”. Burgoo, a type of lamb stew, is also a staple of the area.

Kentucky - Owensboro-BBQ.jpg

Usually, my goto BBQ place is Old Hickory BBQ. But today I head to the best-known BBQ house, Moonlite BBQ. The Moonlite features a large buffet of BBQ’d mutton,  pork and ribs with veggies, mac and cheese, and other southern foods. However, my favorite is the large desert bar with more regional favorites: pecan, lemon icebox, and chess pies. As well as banana and bread puddings.

 

Owensboro riverfront Sunset
Sunset on Ohio River – Smothers Park

The day ends on a much renovated Ohio riverfront river The gray skies have cleared and I am rewarded with a tremendous sunset.