The Serpent Mound is the world’s oldest surviving example of an ancient animal effigy. This immense earthwork was constructed by early American Indian cultures. The exact builders are unknown. The mound is thought to be a ceremonial site. The serpent motif has a symbolic connection in many cultures. It represents the cycles of birth, death, resurrection and the higher and lower worlds. […]
While camping in nearby Dandridge, TN, I begin my early morning fossil expedition as the sun rises on Douglas Lake. It’s only an hour drive to the fossil site, but I want to explore the Tri-cities area a bit before the museum and dig site open. […]
Speedway Motor Speedway; that just doesn’t have the same ring to it that Indianapolis Motor speedway does. That must the dilemma the townsfolk had in 1909 when the speedway was built in Speedway, IN. Though Indianapolis had yet to grow out to the city limits of Speedway, it became the namesake of the track anyway.
I research a little about the track beforehand and learn that they offer an Indy car experience for $500. (I’d get to be a passenger with a professional driver in a 2 seat Indy car) That sounds like fun, but is it justifiable. I have to mull on that. There are slots available later in the day. I’ll tour the museum first and see how I feel about it.
The $20 tour gives a behind the scene look at the track. I love the inner workings of such things, so I want to do this anyway.
The first stop is the media center. This is where the drivers and sponsors address the media. The football field size room is filled with long Formica tables and old analog touch-tone phones; looks like something from a 70’s movie. It seems pretty archaic by today’s standards but does provide my first view of the track and a pretty cool photo op.
The tour guide is a long time racing fan and offers great insights along the way. I, however, keep getting distracted by the service vehicles circling the track. Apparently , they are drying the track for the racing experience folks going out later.
The next stop puts me on the podium at the victory circle. Looking down pit row from the podium I eye the cars that will be used for the 180mph $500 ride of a lifetime. I’m beginning to justify the cost. 2 laps @ 2.5 miles each that’s “only” $100 per mile. Ugh, sounds real expensive in those terms.
On to the pagoda. First inspired by Japanese architecture, the pagoda houses race control, timing and scoring, radio broadcast booths & corporate suites. It also provides a 10 story view of the track. From atop you can not only see the full oval and road course tracks but the Indianapolis skyline. I, however, pretty much only see the 2 seater Indy cars being wheeled onto the track. $500!!! Damn!
Next is a bus ride to the garages and around the famous Gasoline Alley. The tour guide provides lively narrative and trivial tidbits along the way back to the museum.
The tour includes all-day access to the museum. A racing car fan would be in heaven. I’m not a “car guy” but I do appreciate the design and engineering of these cars through the decades.
The final stop of the tour is a photo op in an actual Indy car (man those things are small). By this time, the Indy Experience cars were zipping around the track and I’m just enthralled. The Indy car photographer confirms my suspicions and says “It’s worth every penny, you gotta do it!”
Down to the front desk, I go prepared to pluck down the 5 bills – metaphorically. It would be a credit card swipe and 1% cashback thank you. A sweet little old lady quizzically looks at me and says “We don’t do that here”. What?!? She instructs me to call the 800 number on the card she hands me. “We no longer own our track” she informs me. I’m not sure what that means but I infer something happened that she’s not a fan of. This is a mojo killer and I feel a bit deflated.
I call the number and am presented an overwhelming phone menu for various tracks and experiences, I finally narrow it down to my track and my experience. I prepare to give my credit card number to the agent only to be told to visit their website to schedule. If anything sets me off and puts a clamp on my wallet it’s poor customer service.
I exit the museum and stomp to the 1st turn grandstand and watch the cars zoom by then trod over to the turn 2 “mound” for an even better view.
Assuring myself I made the right decision, I leave and head back to the campground. I call my 78 year old mother to update her on my whereabouts and relay my story. I can always count on her to tell like it is. “Hell, you tight ass. You can’t take it with you. Go ride in the car.” Just the nudge I needed to swallow my pride and to go online and book.
I decide I’d book for a couple of days later only to learn this was the last day and I was too late. Damn it!! If anything gets to me more than poor service it’s being told “I can’t”. And this one was all on me.
Guess I’ll be back in October. For $1,000 I get to drive, hmmmm!
I should impart some words of wisdom and pass on some advise. So here goes. “Hell you tight ass, you can’t take it with you. Go ride in the car.”
Today is one of those days where I just want to phone it in, I’m tired and not feeling well. I do, however, want to visit Lexington’s Harness Racing Track, Red Mile, as it is represented in a SuperGraphic. I’m not a huge harness racing fan, but having Wiener Dog races between the horse races this night presents a perfect opportunity to go check it out.
In Lexington, Horse Racings’ little cousin to Keeneland would be the Red Mile. Red Mile is the second oldest harness track in the world. For over one hundred and forty years, harness racing’s elite have converged on Red Mile to stage some of the greatest equine battles in history.
Harness Racing is a form of horse racing in which the horses race at a specific gait (a trot or a pace) pulling a two-wheeled cart called a sulky on a dirt track.
I’m here for the Weiner dogs and I’m immediately drawn to all the dogs in attendance and proceed to meet as many as I can. I adopt one, Sir Otis von Bratwurst, and he’ll be “my” Weiner for the night. Though he is on a later race card
Meanwhile, I settle in a seat on the rail and soon meet a nice couple, Rita and Catesby Prewitt. We exchange pleasantries throughout the races, share a program and exchange betting ideas and pool our resources on a few bets. We, however, never cash a ticket. Did I mention I’m not crazy about Harness racing?
Ironically, the Prewitt’s son, Gabe is the track announcer and resident handicapper at Red Mile. He would visit us between calling the races. As is my curious nature, I pepper him with questions about how he got into race calling, how he prepares, what the work conditions are like. Before I know it, he invites me up into the press box later in the evening to watch some races. Experiencing something that unique alone would have been worth the trip. Little did I know….
While waiting for the 8th race to join Gabe in the press box, I keep eyeing folks, VIPs I assume, getting in and out of the starting car between races. The starting car is essentially a rolling starting gate. The horses line up behind the car as it revs up to speed then the “starter” retracts the gate releasing the racers with a running start. I inquisitively ask Gabe, what’s it take to ride in that car? A walkie talkie conversation ensues and he states “YOUR’RE IN!” 7th race.
This car is a 1995 Cadillac that has been modified for the purpose. The back seat has been replaced with 2 swivel stools and the back dash is now a control panel of switch and levers. I duck into the back seat facing the rear of the car, it’s much like entering a tank. I meet, Mike, the starter and he is very amicable and again gracious in answering my questions. We speed around to the backstretch and the starter and driver are very mindful of where the horses are during their pre-race warm-ups. The starter uses the large megaphone attached to the outside of the car to issue instructions to the racers to line up. Once we reach about 32 miles per hour the gate retracts and the race is on!
We proceed along the outside of the riders on the track. The starter is looking for any kind of infractions and breaking of strides. It’s overwhelming, there is so much action. I’m trying desperately to get that perfect video, and at the same time to stay out of the starters’ line of sight. I forget I have a GoPro in one hand and an iPhone in the other. I just resign to savor the moment: the sounds of the horses’ hoofs thundering, the jockeys (called drivers) yelling and whistling, the cracks of the whips in the air. It had to be the fastest 90 seconds in my life. The thrill and marvel of it all just left me speechless.
After exiting the car, I rush to join Gabe in the press box for yet another fantastic view of the races. I watch him practice his craft and call the races, while also overlooking the track and all of downtown Lexington. A sense of wonder and appreciation just overwhelm me.
I have struggled to find my place and figuring out who I am. Tonight, I got further confirmation of who I am and what motivates me. I am just a Curious guy that thrives on finding those little one of a kind and unique experiences. Tonight I felt like Forest Gump sitting on that bench. Sitting there one minute and then the next off in a whirlwind of adventure that I cannot predict. I absolutely love it!
From the major thoroughbred racing tracks to Old Friends Farm for retired thoroughbreds Kentucky earns is designation as Horse Capital of the World. The two thoroughbred racing tracks in Kentucky are: Churchill Downs in Louisville and Keeneland in Lexington.
While the two tracks are only about 70 miles apart, they are very different. Churchill is located in the heart of Louisville in a somewhat blighted area, whereas Keeneland is nestled on the outskirts of town among white fence lined horse farms.
The iconic Twin Spires and intense media attention the first Saturday of May instills Churchill as the better known of the two tracks.
I may be a little partial to my home track in Lexington, but to be fair, I’ve only been to Churchill on big, crazy, crowded race days, the derby a couple of times and sadly to watch the little filly Zenyattas‘ winning streak come to an end.
I’ve seen plenty of horse races and they can be fun. I prefer, however, to find attractions away from the home stretch and that can be enjoyed outside the short racing seasons.
Adjacent to Churchill Downs is the Kentucky Derby Museum. There are many informative exhibits to peruse here. As a Kentucky native, I thought I knew horse racing. However, there are many nuances to the sport to be learned today. I have way too much fun being silly and engaging with the many child-oriented interactive displays, but nobody seems to mind. In fact, the museum staff help with some of the “must-have” photo ops.
With two floors of interactive, family-friendly exhibits, the Kentucky Derby Museum takes visitors through every stage of a Thoroughbred’s life, from birth to the First Saturday in May. The main exhibit in the museum is The Greatest Race, a 360° 18-minute media experience that will “make your heart race and emotions soar.” It offers a unique, panoramic ,inside view of horse racing.
The racing season at Keeneland is relatively short; a few weeks in April and in October. But that doesn’t keep me from enjoying the track during offseason.
The grandstand is open to the public year-round and early morning is a great time to enjoy horses breezing some workouts without the usual crowds. The track takes on a whole new persona when its just me and the horses. Watching the horses break from the morning fog, I can hear the breathing, the leather saddles straps and stirrups creaking as they try to contain the power they harness. Feeling the rumble as they run and cantor by is a magical feeling.
The track kitchen is a favorite stop too. This little, mostly unknown, cafe is not just for the trainers, owners, handicappers, and jockeys that use the track year-round, but is also open to the public. It is a nondescript cinder block building on the backside of the track (look for the black water tower). It has simple tables and padded metal chairs. The walls are lined with photos of the famous horses and jockeys who have raced here. The food is simple, fast and affordable.
I look for a famous jockey or owner but there are only a few handlers here today. I do, however, enjoy my “Unbridled” pancakes and bacon.
The thrill of a 2-minute horse race is undeniable. But to really appreciate these beautiful animals, my favorite stop is Old Friends, a thoroughbred retirement farm in Georgetown, KY. Founded in 2003 by former Boston Globe film critic Michael Blowen, the organization has grown from a leased paddock and one horse to a 136-acre farm, a herd of over 175 rescued and retired horses.
This visit, as usual, begins with a greeting from the farms miniature “spokehorse” and mascot, Little Silver Charm. Little Silver Charm, is named for his larger idol and namesake, Silver Charm. This little guy is full of personality and has adorned many of the county’s travel brochures. He is also quick to take a carrot from me and noses the bucket for more.
Michael greets me and is overly excited to share with me the numerous retirees he has taken under his care. He is a walking encyclopedia of the horses’ careers, detailing their harrowing wins and their heartbreaking losses. He enthusiastically recounts their graded stakes entries and earnings. Most interestingly, he can explain and predict each horses’ unique personality.
With much delight, I surprisingly come face to snout with Silver Charm. He was The 1997 Kentucky Derby and Preakness Winner; as well as Racing Hall of Fame inductee. He had just arrived at the farm from standing stud in Japan. It excites me more to see this guy that it would any other modern-day human pro athlete. He is beautiful and stately. Like most thoroughbreds, he is a bit anxious but quickly succumbs to a little coaxing, and a carrot.
The tour continues when Michael wants to show me that Special Ring could show off his tattoo. Sure enough, on command, a proud pony greets us “laughing” and displaying his required tattoo. This tattoo is inside the upper lip and links the racing registration papers to the horse and owner.
The love and compassion Michael shows for these retired athletes is outstanding. They are beautiful animals that deserve to rest, play and retire in comfort and dignity.
Make an early morning trip (6-7 am) to Keeneland and have breakfast at the Track Kitchen. Head over to the Grandstand early so as not to miss the workouts of some future stars.
Continue with a walking tour of the grounds: Keeneland Walking Tour Map. Swing back by the kitchen and have them pack you a lunch to go. Make the 1/2 hour drive to Old Friends Farm for a tour of the equine retirement farm and enjoy a picnic with the former stars of the sport. (and take some carrots).