Holy Sea Cow!
Crystal River is a well-kept secret on Florida’s gulf coast. It offers the outdoor enthusiast many hiking, biking, birding, and paddling trails. From secluded gulf beaches, fishing, golfing, and outstanding sunsets. Crystal River has something for everyone year-round. The real attraction, however, is Three Sisters Springs.
But every year from mid-November through March the areas freshwater springs are home to hundreds of West Indian Manatees. These 1,000 pound mammals seek refuge from the gulfs cold winter waters. They winter over in the constant 72-degree crystal clear spring water.
Love at First Sight –
I first became introduced to the West Indian manatee about 7 years ago when visiting friends in Homosassa, FL. Kayaking alone on the Homosassa river, I see the outline of a large creature approaching. I knew what it was and wasn’t afraid but I could have never predicted what would happen next. As the manatee approached, he rose and abruptly exhaled, expelling a plume of mist from his nostrils.
At this point, we made eye contact as he begin to “play” with my kayak. He would gently and gracefully push me across the river. Returning to the back of the kayak to rise and look at me again. The whole encounter was probably only a couple of minutes. I had no camera and the event only remains in my memory so like many early sailors, maybe, I was a little delusional and being lured.
Ancient Lore
In ancient mythology, siren was a term used for monsters or sea nymphs who lured sailors and their ships to treacherous rocks and shipwreck with mesmerizing songs. Throughout history, sailors sometimes thought they were seeing mermaids when they were probably seeing manatees. With a little imagination, manatees have an uncanny resemblance to human form that could only increase after long months at sea. In fact, manatees may have helped to perpetuate the myth of mermaids.
I cast a spell on you
Nonetheless, the spell of the manatee was firmly implanted and I return yearly to spend time with these gentle giants. While my first sea cow encounter was on the Homosassa river, I’ve learned that the manatees inhabit many of the areas springs and waterways.
Most notable of the areas 30+ springs that create Crystal River, is Three Sisters Springs in Kings Bay. Three Sisters Springs is a world-renowned sanctuary for the West Indian Manatee during the winter months. (November – March) You may visit the 57 acre preserve and view the sanctuary from land by boarding a trolley at the visitor center.
The trolley is $15 and departs the visitors center approximately every 1/2 hour. The 5 minute trolley ride will take you to the 1/4 mile boardwalk with viewing platforms to observe the springs, manatees and other native wildlife. There are also 1.5 miles of nature trails that you can explore to see views of not only Kings Bay but also Magnolia Springs, Lake Crystal and wetlands.
To really experience the manatee, many licensed outfitters provide the unique opportunity to boat out into the bay, snorkel and drift with the manatees. In fact, Crystal River is the only place in the United States that allows this interaction with the gentle giants. Though the 72-degree water is comfortable for the manatee a wet suit will be provided by the outfitter.
For the more independent type, many of the same outfitters offer wet suit and kayak rental and you may visit the springs, after a short paddle, on your own schedule.
Diver Down
Today’s trip I decide to Kayak out to 3 Sisters, I rent a wetsuit from American Pro Dive Center. Then proceed with my own kayak to the boat ramp at Birds Diving Center. Crystal River is a terrific area to kayak. King Bay is an easy to navigate circle of about 3 miles in diameter. Outfitters will provide you a map and easy directions to follow. You will not get lost within Kings Bay and there is no significant current. Be mindful of heavy winds and choppy waters, however.
It takes about 30-45 minutes to paddle across Kings Bay to Three Sisters. Taking a left past Petes Pier and heading under Kings Bay (Humpty) bridge.
Along with the famous springs like Three Sisters, many other springs are available for manatee viewing. Jurassic and Hunter Springs are well known and popular for their clarity, The headsprings of Three Sisters Springs is open to kayakers from May 1st to November 15th, when the sanctuaries go up for the winter season. During the Manatee Season, access to the Three Sister Springs itself is strictly regulated. The Springs is only open when the temperature is over 62F degrees for 24 hours. You will see plenty of manatees while kayaking on the cold winter days. There is always an abundance of wildlife to see on Kings Bay including occasional dolphin sightings.
No One home?
A charter of about 2 dozens snorkelers are leaving just as I paddle up. I have the whole 3 Sisters Springs seemingly to myself. Those leaving feel compelled to warn me that there are no manatees in the Springs today.
There are a few ropes along the bank to moor the kayak but exiting in a wetsuit is awkward at best. I’ve learned from previous visits that a pool noodle is worth its weight in gold. Entrance to the spring headwaters is through Spring Run. Up to a million gallons of water per day are discharged from the 3 Sister Springs so swimming “upstream” can be a challenge.
Follow Me
I swim toward the Deep Sister spring and encounter a diver with some sophisticated underwater camera. equipment A lone manatee, however, seems to take an interest in me with my lowly GoPro. The lumbering mammal pauses as if to give me time for the shot. Unlike my first manatee encounter, I capture this heartwarming moment as the guy proceeds to motion for me to follow him out of the Spring back into Crystal River.
Manatee Festival – Crystal River
The manatees have provided so much enjoyment for me over the years. I decide I’d like to help in their conservation and preservation.
Each January the small town hosts the Manatee Festival. There’s a ton of things to do at the festival music on three stages, live entertainment, a huge Kid Zone, an animal education area (skunks, bats, birds, dogs, a possum & more), boat tours of the bay, free access and shuttle to Three Sisters Springs, and a wide selection of vendors.
I signed up to volunteer with Save the Manatee Club. Being open to any assignment, I was appointed to work the information booth. I arrive at my appointed time and the booth is a flurry of activity. I immediately feel out of place as I really don’t know what to do.
Game On!
One of the other volunteers, Trinket, sensing my uneasiness takes me under her wing. Our first task is to inflate a huge manatee. It’s unusually chilly today and I’m excited to have a physical task to get moving around.
With the manatee inflated and secured we begin a calendar selling contest. I take an early lead and I’m proud of my sales skills. However, I fade quickly and finish a distant second in the contest. To my credit, Trinket is a seasoned Manatee Club professional with many years of experience over me…..next year!!!
Despite the cool, the festival attendees are in good spirits and are very receptive to our cause. I am surprised at the number of folks who just drop a dollar or two into the donations jar without picking up one of our donation items: postcards, stickers etc. I feel kind of selfish as I never do that. In fact, I rarely approach such booths at festivals as I’m afraid of being asked to make a donation. I gain a whole new perspective today, I can do better.
Then there are the guys who think they’re funny and ask where are our cookbooks. This happens on more than one occasion and I don’t really get the joke. Trinket takes great umbrage to the reference and is quick to reprimand the offender; then sells them a calendar. Like I said, she’s a pro.
Manatee Festival – Day 2
The festival is a 2-day event. I return the following day as a civilian to take it all in. I return to the Manatee Club booth and inquire about the cookbooks. It’s still not funny and I ended up with a calendar as a result of my vain humor attempt.
I decide to take Murphy, and feel like a proud papa taking my boy out to the fair.
The festival has all the attractions you would expect to see. Arts, crafts, petting zoo, information booths and a food court. I enjoy the coastal flair that many of the artists display. It’s quite different from what I am used to seeing.
Good Eats
Festival food is always one of my favorite attractions. As I expect, there are funnel cakes, turkey legs, corn dogs and other assorted fried delicacies. What is unique about the food today is the coastal connection. The options are overwhelming: alligator chili, crabby mac, crabcake sliders, lobster rolls, and shrimp and grits. I opt for some of Dan’s clam Chowdah! And, of course, Ice cream that I ended up sharing.
On the way out of the venue, I notice the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society tent. I engage the volunteer in a lively discussion and now feel a certain kinship with her. I look for the donation jar and see none, but I had a couple of dollars ready to go.
When not on the road, he helps others fulfill their yearning to travel as a Membership Specialist for Thousand Trails.
destination might be, I see a U-Haul trailer with catfish emblazoned on the side. It announces Belzoni as the
Is it me or is there a bit of resemblance between Murphys snout and the Manatees? Too cute!
I feel like I’m famous now. You were great at selling the calendars, I never thought of having one of the photographers sign one to get a sale….great marketing strategy. In NY now, 23 degrees with light snow falling. It is pretty and will be great for a couple of weeks, but then I’ll be ready to get back to my manatees!!! (:3)
I thought about going up there, but it was soooo cold!! I wondered if there would be a disappointing turnout because of the cold temps.
It was a goood crowd. Sunday, the warmer day, seemed to be more crowded though.