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Lexington, Kentucky – Red Mile

Lexington Red Mile

Today is one of those days where I just want to phone it in, I’m tired and not feeling well. I do, however, want to visit Lexington’s Harness Racing Track, Red Mile, as it is represented in a SuperGraphic. I’m not a huge harness racing fan, but having Wiener Dog races between the horse races this night presents a perfect opportunity to go check it out.

In Lexington, Horse Racings’ little cousin to Keeneland would be the Red Mile. Red Mile is the second oldest harness track in the world. For over one hundred and forty years, harness racing’s elite have converged on Red Mile to stage some of the greatest equine battles in history.

Harness Racing is a form of horse racing in which the horses race at a specific gait (a trot or a pace) pulling a two-wheeled cart called a sulky on a dirt track.

I’m here for the Weiner dogs and I’m immediately drawn to all the dogs in attendance and proceed to meet as many as I can. I adopt one, Sir Otis von Bratwurst, and he’ll be “my” Weiner for the night. Though he is on a later race card

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Sir Otis von Bratwurst

A Chance Meeting

Meanwhile, I settle in a seat on the rail and soon meet a nice couple, Rita and Catesby Prewitt. We exchange pleasantries throughout the races, share a program and exchange betting ideas and pool our resources on a few bets. We, however, never cash a ticket. Did I mention I’m not crazy about Harness racing?

Ironically, the Prewitt’s son, Gabe is the track announcer and resident handicapper at Red Mile.  He would visit us between calling the races.   As is my curious nature, I pepper him with questions about how he got into race calling, how he prepares, what the work conditions are like.  Before I know it, he invites me up into the press box later in the evening to watch some races. Experiencing something that unique alone would have been worth the trip. Little did I know….

The Starting Car

While waiting for the 8th race to join Gabe in the press box, I keep eyeing folks, VIPs I assume, getting in and out of the starting car between races.  The starting car is essentially a rolling starting gate. The horses line up behind the car as it revs up to speed then the “starter” retracts the gate releasing the racers with a running start. I inquisitively ask Gabe, what’s it take to ride in that car?  A walkie talkie conversation ensues and he states “YOUR’RE IN!” 7th race.

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This car is a 1995 Cadillac that has been modified for the purpose. The back seat has been replaced with 2 swivel stools and the back dash is now a control panel of switch and levers. I duck into the back seat facing the rear of the car, it’s much like entering a tank. I meet, Mike, the starter and he is very amicable and again gracious in answering my questions.  We speed around to the backstretch and the starter and driver are very mindful of where the horses are during their pre-race warm-ups.  The starter uses the large megaphone attached to the outside of the car to issue instructions to the racers to line up. Once we reach about 32 miles per hour the gate retracts and the race is on!

We proceed along the outside of the riders on the track. The starter is looking for any kind of infractions and breaking of strides.   It’s overwhelming, there is so much action. I’m trying desperately to get that perfect video, and at the same time to stay out of the starters’ line of sight.   I forget I have a GoPro in one hand and an iPhone in the other. I just resign to savor the moment: the sounds of the horses’ hoofs thundering, the jockeys (called drivers) yelling and whistling, the cracks of the whips in the air.  It had to be the fastest 90 seconds in my life. The thrill and marvel of it all just left me speechless.

To the Roof – Press box

After exiting the car, I rush to join Gabe in the press box for yet another fantastic view of the races. I watch him practice his craft and call the races, while also overlooking the track and all of downtown Lexington. A sense of wonder and appreciation just overwhelm me.

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Gabe Prewitt making the call

I have struggled to find my place and figuring out who I am. Tonight, I got further confirmation of who I am and what motivates me.  I am just a Curious guy that thrives on finding those little one of a kind and unique experiences. Tonight I felt like Forest Gump sitting on that bench. Sitting there one minute and then the next off in a whirlwind of adventure that I cannot predict. I absolutely love it!

Kentucky SuperGraphic

Kentucky Thoroughbreds – Win, Place, Show

Kentucky Thoroughbreds – Win, Place, Show

From the major thoroughbred racing tracks to Old Friends Farm for retired thoroughbreds Kentucky earns is designation as Horse Capital of the World.  The two thoroughbred racing tracks in Kentucky are: Churchill Downs in Louisville and Keeneland in Lexington.

While the two tracks are only about 70 miles apart, they are very different. Churchill is located in the heart of Louisville in a somewhat blighted area, whereas Keeneland is nestled on the outskirts of town among white fence lined horse farms.

The Show Bet: Churchill Downs – Louisville, KY

The iconic Twin Spires and intense media attention the first Saturday of May instills Churchill as the better known of the two tracks.

Churchill Barbaro Statue

 

I may be a little partial to my home track in Lexington, but to be fair, I’ve only been to Churchill on big, crazy, crowded race days, the derby a couple of times and sadly to watch the little filly Zenyattas‘ winning streak come to an end.

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I’ve seen plenty of horse races and they can be fun. I prefer, however, to find attractions away from the home stretch and that can be enjoyed outside the short racing seasons.

Kentucky Derby Museum

Adjacent to Churchill Downs is the Kentucky Derby Museum. There are many informative exhibits to peruse here. As a Kentucky native, I thought I knew horse racing. However, there are many nuances to the sport to be learned today. I have way too much fun being silly and engaging with the many child-oriented interactive displays, but nobody seems to mind. In fact, the museum staff help with some of the “must-have” photo ops.

Kentucky Jockey Outfit

With two floors of interactive, family-friendly exhibits, the Kentucky Derby Museum takes visitors through every stage of a Thoroughbred’s life, from birth to the First Saturday in May. The main exhibit in the museum is The Greatest Race, a 360° 18-minute media experience that will “make your heart race and emotions soar.” It offers a unique, panoramic ,inside view of horse racing.

The Place Bet:  Keeneland – Lexington, KY

Keeneland Blanket

The racing season at Keeneland is relatively short; a few weeks in April and in October. But that doesn’t keep me from enjoying the track during offseason.

Morning Workouts – Keeneland

The grandstand is open to the public year-round and early morning is a great time to enjoy horses breezing some workouts without the usual crowds. The track takes on a whole new persona when its just me and the horses. Watching the horses break from the morning fog, I can hear the breathing, the leather saddles straps and stirrups creaking as they try to contain the power they harness.  Feeling the rumble as they run and cantor by is a magical feeling.

Track Kitchen – Keeneland

The track kitchen is a favorite stop too.  This little, mostly unknown, cafe is not just for the trainers, owners, handicappers, and jockeys that use the track year-round, but is also open to the public.  It is a nondescript cinder block building on the backside of the track (look for the black water tower).  It has simple tables and padded metal chairs. The walls are lined with photos of the famous horses and jockeys who have raced here. The food is simple, fast and affordable.

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I look for a famous jockey or owner but there are only a few handlers here today. I do, however, enjoy my “Unbridled” pancakes and bacon.

The Winning Bet: Old Friends Equine Retirement Farm – Georgetown, KY

The thrill of a 2-minute horse race is undeniable.  But to really appreciate these beautiful animals, my favorite stop is Old Friends, a thoroughbred retirement farm in Georgetown, KY. Founded in 2003 by former Boston Globe film critic Michael Blowen, the organization has grown from a leased paddock and one horse to a 136-acre farm, a herd of over 175 rescued and retired horses.

This visit, as usual, begins with a greeting from the farms miniature “spokehorse” and mascot, Little Silver Charm.  Little Silver Charm, is named for his larger idol and namesake, Silver Charm. This little guy is full of personality and has adorned many of the county’s travel brochures. He is also quick to take a carrot from me and noses the bucket for more.

Little Silver Charm at Old Friends Farm
Little Silver Charm

Out to Pasture

Michael greets me and is overly excited to share with me the numerous retirees he has taken under his care. He is a walking encyclopedia of the horses’ careers, detailing their harrowing wins and their heartbreaking losses. He enthusiastically recounts their graded stakes entries and earnings. Most interestingly, he can explain and predict each horses’ unique personality.

With much delight, I surprisingly come face to snout with Silver Charm. He was The 1997 Kentucky Derby and Preakness Winner; as well as Racing Hall of Fame inductee.   He had just arrived at the farm from standing stud in Japan.  It excites me more to see this guy that it would any other modern-day human pro athlete. He is beautiful and stately. Like most thoroughbreds, he is a bit anxious but quickly succumbs to a little coaxing, and a carrot.

Silver Charm at Old Friends Farm
1997 Derby Winner – Silver Charm

The tour continues when Michael wants to show me that Special Ring could show off his tattoo. Sure enough, on command, a proud pony greets us “laughing” and displaying his required tattoo. This tattoo is inside the upper lip and links the racing registration papers to the horse and owner.Old Friends Farm - Special Ring Tattoo

The love and compassion Michael shows for these retired athletes is outstanding. They are beautiful animals that deserve to rest, play and retire in comfort and dignity.

Old Friends Farm retired horses
Rapid Redux and Amazombie horsin around.

 

Hot Tip: Surefire Winning Trifecta

Make an early morning trip (6-7 am) to Keeneland and have breakfast at the Track Kitchen. Head over to the Grandstand early so as not to miss the workouts of some future stars.

2 Thoroughbreds at Old Friends Farm
Takin Selfies

Continue with a walking tour of the grounds:  Keeneland Walking Tour Map.  Swing back by the kitchen and have them pack you a lunch to go. Make the 1/2 hour drive to Old Friends Farm for a tour of the equine retirement farm and enjoy a picnic with the former stars of the sport. (and take some carrots).

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Owensboro Bluegrass and BBQ

Owensboro Bluegrass

As an Owensboro native, I never considered my hometown as a hub of bluegrass music. I set out to uncover this Bluegrass connection. At the foot of the Ohio River bridge, is the newly constructed Bluegrass Music Museum. I find that the museum is closed on Sunday. In fact, the entire riverfront is deserted on an early Sunday morning. The Bluegrass music echoing from overhead speakers adds comfort to the otherwise gloomy skies and empty streets.

Bluegrass musical instruments

 

It seems that Owensboro is laying claim to its Bluegrass roots due to the proximity of Bill Monroes’ childhood home. Bill Monroe, “The Father of Bluegrass Music”, grew up 30 miles down the road in Rosine, KY.

Bill Monroe Blue Grass Boys Poster

International Bluegrass Museum – try again

I have been wanting to drop into the International Bluegrass Museum for a couple of years but somehow it never seems to fit into the schedule. On a previous visit, the museum was closed.

It’s an early rainy morning the weekend before Christmas and the whole riverfront is deserted.  Much to my surprise, the museum is open today.

Admission is a reasonable $8. I find a lone employee behind the counter and she eagerly introduces me to the museum. Sally starts a movie detailing the roots of Bluegrass Music narrated by the Father of Bluegrass, Bill Monroe.

I do find such history interesting but I am told the movie is :40 minutes long. That’s a bit much for my short attention span.  I wander around to some of the displays adjacent to the theater.

The displays give a textbook definition of Bluegrass Music as being tight throated, high-pitched,  piercing and full of lonesome yearning for the good simple life.  I never thought of it like that; but I’ve always appreciated the sound.

Owensboro Bluegrass Museum Displays

The displays are pretty static offering overhead domes for listening to the various artists and highlighting nuances of the music. Fortunately, I am the only one here. If it were busy the kiosks would be competing and playing over each other.

The Toe Tapping Begins

One display I particularly enjoy highlights bluegrass music in TV and film. Who ever gets tired of hearing “The Ballad of Jed Clampett”, from The Beverly Hillbillies,  “Dueling Banjos” from Deliverance and “Foggy Mountain Breakdown” from Bonnie and Clyde?

I fondly recall listening to Dad trying to pluck out Foggy Mounting breakdown and Cripple Creek when I was a child.  He never quite got the hang of it, bless his heart, and he about drove us crazy trying.

I wrap up the tour back at the lobby / gift shop area.  Sally enthusiastically asks about my visit. While discussing the exhibits,  I spy a huge upright bass behind her.  I ask if it’s available for a photo op.  She does me one better and provides a little impromptu lesson / jam session. I garner a whole new appreciation for the art; she just made it look easy!

Owensboro Bluegrass Museum Jam Session
Curious Craig and Strummin Sally

The current venue is small and cozy but big things are in store for the museum. In 2018, they get a new larger venue with much more to offer.  I’ll have to work on my plucking and come back for the Thursday jam sessions. In the meantime, I’ll continue to yearn for the good simple life.

I seek to learn more about Mr. Monroe and travel to The Bill Monroe Home Place.  While its posted hours state it should be open, it too is closed. The sign on the gate states to call the posted number and someone will be there for a tour within 15 minutes. My call went unanswered.  I will return to learn of this connection but for now, it’s lunchtime.

Owensboro BBQ

Owensboro is famously known as the BBQ Capital of the World. Sorry, Texas, Kansas, & Memphis. We got the trademark first. We celebrate the second weekend in May every year with the International BBQ Festival. Owensboro’s BBQ specialty is Mutton. Mutton is lamb meat smoked over hickory wood. It is served in both sliced and chopped varieties usually on white bread or hamburger bun. As a sandwich, expect it to come with pickle and onion. I prefer the sliced mutton, with a vinegar-based sauce that we locals call “dip”. Burgoo, a type of lamb stew, is also a staple of the area.

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Usually, my goto BBQ place is Old Hickory BBQ. But today I head to the best-known BBQ house, Moonlite BBQ. The Moonlite features a large buffet of BBQ’d mutton,  pork and ribs with veggies, mac and cheese, and other southern foods. However, my favorite is the large desert bar with more regional favorites: pecan, lemon icebox, and chess pies. As well as banana and bread puddings.

 

Owensboro riverfront Sunset
Sunset on Ohio River – Smothers Park

The day ends on a much renovated Ohio riverfront river The gray skies have cleared and I am rewarded with a tremendous sunset.

RAGBRAI Road Bikes

RAGBRAI – Bike Ride Across Iowa

The Registers Great Annual Bike Ride Across Iowa – RAGBRAI

When a few friends got together for a casual bike ride across Iowa in 1973, no one imagined that a tradition would be born. Much less that it would become the longest, largest and oldest recreational bicycle touring event in the world. RAGBRAI is held the last full week of July.  10,000+ cycling enthusiasts of all ages, fitness levels and demographics convene to cycle across Iowa.

The routes vary each year, going from west to east. This allows riders to take advantage of the prevailing winds and to keep sun at their backs. The ride begins with a ceremonial back tire dip in the Missouri River and proceeds approximately 500 miles with a front tire dip in the Mississippi River at its conclusion.

RAGBRAI Sunrise - bike ride across Iowa
RAGBRAI Sunrise

A Cyclist Parade

The ride proceeds through many small towns along its daily predetermined route. Each town shows off its unique personality to the throngs of new visitors. These towns are proud of their agricultural heritage. They proudly show off the tools of their trade. On display, are vintage tractors and the latest state of the art farm equipment. Light poles and streetscapes are adorned with flags, flowers and numerous forms of art depicting cycling. Also prominently featured are displays of young livestock, giving city dwellers an opportunity to see farm animals up close and personal.

 

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Despite being amongst thousands of other RAGBRAI cyclists, I can help but feel like a VIP when rolling into town. Residents wave, ring cowbells, shout words of encouragement and cheerfully welcome you to their home town.

Welcomes Bike ride across Iowa Iowa - Old Spokes Home RAGBRAI Supporters

Each daily ride ranges from 50-80 miles with riders overnighting in a designated host town each night. The majority of riders camping in city parks, ball fields, schoolyards, and industrial parks. Many charter services are available to move your camping gear from town to town so that you may cycle unencumbered. My particular favorite is Pork Belly Ventures. For a modest fee, they spot out campsites, transport your gear and provide morning coffee and evening dinner.

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Did I mention food?

A large part of the allure of RAGBAI is the guilt-free overindulgence of regional cuisine. The towns’ schools, civic organizations and churches find the opportunity to raise money by catering to the ravenous appetites of hoards of hungry cyclists. You can expect to find locally produced foods such as: pork, beef, buttery ambrosia sweet corn, cheese curds and just about anything that can be put on a stick.

Many of the communities give tribute to their European heritages. I found the Norwegian lefsa wrapped brats and Czechoslovakian kolaches to be unexpected treats. My absolute favorite stop of the day was Hostetler’s Amish pie and ice cream caravan. They offered traditional and fried fruit pies with vanilla ice cream churned on-site.

 

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As if the hospitality and food weren’t enough, the locals go to all lengths to entertain the riders. Town themes ranges from Mayberry to the paranormal. Fun and games abound, including  petting zoos, spinning couches on tractors, cow chip tossing, and Elvis impersonators just to name a few.

Pig Kissing at RAGBRAI - Bike ride across Iowa

 

My favorite is a game of waterball with the local fire department.  The object of the game is to push an empty keg with the firehose past the opponents line. Kind of a reverse tug of war. Its wet, loud, and way too much fun.

The days of riding can be long, but the ever-changing pastoral views go by too fast. I’m overtaken by the serene beauty of contrasting colors of green corn and soybean fields against the blue skies. The pops of color from barns, houses, and silos add to the awe-inspiring landscape.

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The week winds down with one more challenge. The Mount Hosmer Challenge

More fun to come

Harriet Hosmer was a neoclassical sculptor, considered the most distinguished female sculptor in America during the 19th century. She is also the first female professional sculptor. Legend has it, that during a steamboat layover, Harriet challenged the crew to a foot race up the bluff overlooking the Mississippi River.  She won the 7/10th’s of a mile race, running barefooted, in 7:03. Since that time, this bluff has borne her name: Mount Hosmer.

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Mt Hosmer View RAGBRAI - Bike Ride Across Iowa
Mississippi River as seen from Mt Hosmer

A Race to the Top

A part of this years RAGBRAI festivities and ending location in Lansing, IA, the organizers revive the spirit of the legendary race and let cyclists compete. Those with a time better than 7:03 receive a gift and the honor of having beat Harriet. As a reasonably fit man, outfitted with a custom-fitted, 22 gears, carbon frame, state of the art bike, I should have no problem beating that time, right?

RAGBRAI - Mt Hosmer Pose

 

17% grade to start!! That’s a momentum killer.  It never flattens much from there. It is a tough steep uphill slog. About 1/2 way up, I peek at some spectacular views of the Mississippi River below. I could waste no time gawking however, as the seriousness of the challenge was quickly revealing itself.

With heart-pounding and breathing labored, I cross the finish line. A race official hands me a nice commemorative stainless steel tumbler for completing the challenge. Was this the winners’ gift I had hoped for? Uh, No. It was a consolation prize. My time?  Well, let’s just say Harriet – 1, Craig – 0. Kudos Harriet, you are one tough gal.

RAGBRAI an all American affair

RAGBRAI is more than just a bike ride across Iowa, It is part sporting event, part county fair, part parade with a splash of Mardi gras. It represents all that is great about America: simple fun, community pride, and the joy that comes with being active and outdoors. All one needs to participate is a bike and a sense of adventure.  While I would recommend doing the whole week, you can simply join in for a one day ride at any of the host towns.

 

Iowa - Manson-Meteor

The Great Invisible Crater – Manson, Iowa

The largest crater in the United States

Manson, IA is located near the site of the Manson crater, formed by a meteorite collision that happened 74 million years ago. The crater’s existence was first discovered during an oil-drilling expedition in the 1930s. At one time, it was thought to be the biggest impact by an object from outer space in North America. The impact event was also once theorized to have led to the extinction of the dinosaurs. […]